Related TacticalProof reading: Are Opossums Dangerous?

Why Growing Your Own Feed Matters for Self-Sufficiency

The decision to cultivate your own chicken feed extends far beyond simple cost savings. It’s a foundational step towards genuine homestead resilience and food security. Here’s why it’s a game-changer:

• Food Security & Supply Chain Independence: Relying on commercial feed means you’re at the mercy of global markets, transportation issues, and unforeseen crises. Growing your own mitigates these risks, ensuring your flock has a consistent food source regardless of external disruptions.
• Cost Reduction: Commercial chicken feed is a significant ongoing expense. By producing your own, you drastically reduce your operational costs, making your homestead more economically viable.
• Nutritional Control: You dictate what goes into your chickens’ diet. Avoid GMOs, questionable additives, and pesticides often found in conventional feeds. You can tailor the nutritional profile to your flock’s specific needs, leading to healthier, more productive birds.
• Improved Flock Health: Freshly harvested, nutrient-dense crops often surpass the quality of bagged feed that may have sat in storage for months. This translates to stronger immune systems, better egg production, and overall vitality for your chickens.
• Soil Health & Biodiversity: Integrating feed crops into your garden plan promotes healthy soil through crop rotation, cover cropping, and diverse plantings. This holistic approach benefits your entire homestead ecosystem.
• Reduced Environmental Impact: Less reliance on industrial agriculture means a smaller carbon footprint associated with feed production and transportation.

Embracing a homestead chicken feed garden is an investment in your future, your flock’s health, and the overall sustainability of your self-sufficient lifestyle.

The 8 Best Crops for Homegrown Chicken Feed

A diverse array of crops is key to providing a balanced diet for your flock. Focus on a mix of grains for carbohydrates, legumes for protein, and leafy greens for vitamins and minerals. Here are some of the best chicken feed crops to plant:

1. Corn (Maize)

• Nutritional Value: High in carbohydrates (energy), moderate protein, and some healthy fats. Yellow corn provides beneficial carotenoids for vibrant yolk color.
• Growing Tips: Plant after the last frost in well-drained, fertile soil with full sun. Space plants 8-12 inches apart in blocks for good pollination. Requires consistent moisture.
• Harvest & Use: Harvest when kernels are hard and dry on the cob. Dry thoroughly to prevent mold. Can be fed whole (cracked for smaller birds) or ground.
• Yield: A single plant can yield 1-2 ears, but planting in quantity is essential for feed.

2. Sunflower

• Nutritional Value: Excellent source of protein (up to 20%), healthy fats, and essential vitamins (E, B complex) and minerals. The seeds are highly palatable.
• Growing Tips: Plant in full sun after the last frost. Prefers well-drained soil. Space large varieties 2-3 feet apart. Support tall plants if in windy areas.
• Harvest & Use: Harvest when the back of the head turns yellow and seeds are plump. Protect from birds (netting) until fully mature. Dry heads thoroughly, then remove seeds. Feed whole or cracked.
• Yield: One large head can contain hundreds of seeds.

3. Amaranth

• Nutritional Value: A ‘pseudo-grain’ with a high protein content (13-18%), including lysine, which is often deficient in other grains. Rich in iron, calcium, and magnesium.
• Growing Tips: Thrives in warm weather and full sun. Tolerates poor soil and drought once established. Broadcast seeds or plant in rows 12-18 inches apart.
• Harvest & Use: Harvest seed heads when seeds begin to drop easily. Dry thoroughly and thresh to separate seeds. Can be fed whole or ground. The leaves are also edible for chickens (and humans!).
• Yield: Very prolific, producing large quantities of tiny seeds.

4. Millet

• Nutritional Value: Good source of carbohydrates, moderate protein, and various minerals. Small seeds are easy for chickens to consume.
• Growing Tips: Warm-season crop, plant after danger of frost. Prefers full sun and well-drained soil. Can tolerate drier conditions. Broadcast or plant in rows.
• Harvest & Use: Harvest when seed heads are mature and dry. Cut stalks, dry further if needed, then thresh. Feed whole.
• Yield: High yield, quick growing.

5. Wheat

• Nutritional Value: Primary source of carbohydrates, moderate protein. A staple grain.
• Growing Tips: Can be planted as a spring or winter crop depending on variety and climate. Requires full sun and well-drained soil. Plant in rows or broadcast.
• Harvest & Use: Harvest when stalks and heads are golden and dry. Thresh to separate grain. Can be fed whole or ground.
• Yield: Varies greatly by variety and growing conditions, but generally high.

6. Oats

• Nutritional Value: Good source of carbohydrates, moderate protein, and fiber. Very palatable to chickens.
• Growing Tips: Cool-season crop, can be planted in early spring or fall. Tolerates a wider range of soil types than wheat.
• Harvest & Use: Harvest when grains are plump and dry. Thresh to separate. Can be fed whole.
• Yield: Similar to wheat, good yields in suitable climates.

7. Peas (Field Peas, Cowpeas)

• Nutritional Value: Excellent source of plant-based protein (20-25%), essential amino acids, and fiber. Legumes are crucial for balancing grain-heavy diets.
• Growing Tips: Field peas are cool-season; cowpeas are warm-season. Plant in full sun. Most are vining and benefit from support. Nitrogen fixers, improving soil.
• Harvest & Use: Harvest when pods are dry and seeds are hard. Shell and dry thoroughly. Feed whole or cracked.
• Yield: Good yields, especially with proper support.

8. Comfrey (Bocking 14 variety)

• Nutritional Value: Not a grain, but an incredible nutrient accumulator. Rich in protein (up to 25% dry weight), vitamins (A, B, C), and minerals (calcium, potassium, iron).
• Growing Tips: Perennial, grows from root cuttings. Plant in full sun to partial shade in rich, moist soil. Once established, it’s very hardy and drought-tolerant.
• Harvest & Use: Harvest leaves frequently (every 4-6 weeks) by cutting them down to a few inches above the ground. Feed fresh, wilted, or dried and crumbled. Do not feed exclusively; use as a supplement.
• Yield: Extremely prolific, providing multiple harvests per season for years.
• Safety Warning: While beneficial in moderation, some sources suggest large quantities of comfrey may have liver toxicity concerns for humans and animals due to pyrrolizidine alkaloids. Feed as a supplement, not a primary feed source.

How Much Land You Actually Need Per Chicken

Estimating land requirements for a self-sufficient chicken feed garden is crucial. It depends on your flock size, chosen crops, and local growing conditions. A general rule of thumb for a truly self-sufficient system is to aim for 200-400 square feet per chicken for feed production, assuming you’re growing a diverse mix of grains, legumes, and greens. This accounts for crop rotation, pathways, and potential yield fluctuations.

Example Calculation for a Small Flock (10 Chickens):

Let’s assume you have 10 laying hens. A laying hen consumes approximately 0.25 lbs (113 grams) of feed per day. Over a year, that’s roughly 91.25 lbs (41.4 kg) per hen, or 912.5 lbs (414 kg) for 10 hens.

• Corn: A good yield is 100-150 lbs per 1,000 sq ft. To get 400 lbs of corn, you’d need roughly 3,000-4,000 sq ft.
• Wheat/Oats: Similar yields to corn.
• Sunflower: Can yield 50-100 lbs per 1,000 sq ft. To get 100 lbs of sunflower seeds, you’d need 1,000-2,000 sq ft.
• Peas/Legumes: Can yield 30-60 lbs per 1,000 sq ft.
• Comfrey/Greens: A small patch (e.g., 100 sq ft) can provide ample greens for 10 chickens.

Considering a diverse mix, crop rotation, and allowing for some buffer, a dedicated area of 2,000 to 4,000 square feet (roughly 0.05 to 0.1 acres) per 10 chickens is a realistic starting point for growing the bulk of their feed. This doesn’t include their coop, run, or pasture space. For smaller flocks (e.g., 3-5 chickens), you might get away with 500-1000 sq ft, especially if they free-range extensively.

Key Considerations:

• Soil Fertility: Highly fertile soil will produce higher yields, reducing the land needed.
• Climate: Your growing season length and rainfall will impact crop choices and yields.
• Crop Rotation: Essential for soil health and pest management. Plan for 3-4 year rotations, meaning you’ll need more total land than what’s actively planted in any given year.
• Free-Ranging: Chickens that free-range extensively will forage for a significant portion of their diet (insects, weeds, seeds), reducing your cultivated feed requirements.

Seasonal Planting Calendar for Continuous Feed Production

Year-round feed production requires careful planning, succession planting, and utilizing both warm and cool-season crops. This general calendar assumes a temperate climate; adjust for your specific hardiness zone.

Spring (March – May)

• Early Spring: Plant cool-season grains like oats and spring wheat. Sow field peas. Start comfrey from root cuttings if not already established.
• Mid-Spring: Prepare beds for warm-season crops. Direct sow millet.
• Late Spring: Plant corn and sunflowers after the last frost. Sow cowpeas.
• Tasks: Fertilize existing comfrey. Weed actively.

Summer (June – August)

• Early Summer: Continue succession planting of millet and cowpeas for later harvests.
• Mid-Summer: First harvest of oats and spring wheat. Harvest comfrey leaves every 4-6 weeks.
• Late Summer: Corn and sunflowers begin to mature. Prepare beds for fall planting.
• Tasks: Irrigation is critical. Monitor for pests.

Fall (September – November)

• Early Fall: Major harvest period for corn, sunflowers, amaranth, and cowpeas. Plant winter wheat and winter oats (if your climate allows for overwintering).
• Mid-Fall: Final comfrey harvest before dormancy. Plant cover crops (e.g., clover, vetch) in empty beds to improve soil and provide winter forage.
• Late Fall: Clean up garden beds. Process and store harvested grains.
• Tasks: Prepare for winter, ensure storage is secure.

Winter (December – February)

• Tasks: Focus on feeding stored grains and utilizing fodder systems (see next section). Plan next year’s garden layout and crop rotations. Order seeds. Maintain winter cover crops.
• Winter Forage: If your climate is mild, winter wheat or oats planted in fall can provide some green forage for chickens during warmer winter days.

Succession Planting: For crops like millet, cowpeas, and even some faster-maturing corn varieties, plant small batches every 2-3 weeks during their growing season to ensure a continuous supply rather than one massive harvest.

Sprouting and Fodder Systems for Winter Feed Gaps

Even with careful planning, winter can present challenges for fresh feed. Sprouting grains and growing fodder are excellent ways to bridge these gaps, providing highly nutritious, fresh greens indoors.

Benefits of Sprouts and Fodder:

• Nutrient Boost: Sprouting increases the bioavailability of nutrients, enzymes, and vitamins (especially B vitamins and Vitamin C).
• Digestibility: The sprouting process breaks down complex starches, making grains easier for chickens to digest.
• Cost-Effective: A small amount of dry grain expands significantly when sprouted, stretching your feed supply.
• Winter Greens: Provides essential fresh greens when outdoor forage is scarce.
• Hydration: Fodder is high in water content, contributing to your flock’s hydration.

Simple Fodder System (Tray Method):

This method uses shallow trays to grow a dense mat of sprouted grains.

1. Choose Your Grain: Barley, wheat, oats, and rye are excellent choices. Avoid hulled grains as they sprout poorly.
2. Soak: Place 1-2 cups of grain (per 10 chickens) in a bucket and cover with water. Soak for 8-12 hours.
3. Spread: Drain the soaked grain and spread it evenly in a shallow tray (e.g., a 10×20 nursery tray with drainage holes). Aim for a layer about 1/2 inch thick.
4. Rinse & Drain: Twice daily, rinse the grains thoroughly under cool water and drain completely. Proper drainage is crucial to prevent mold.
5. Light: Place trays in an area with indirect light or under grow lights.
6. Harvest: In 5-7 days, you’ll have a dense mat of green sprouts, typically 4-6 inches tall. The entire mat, roots and all, can be fed to your chickens.
7. Rotation: To ensure a continuous supply, start a new tray every day or two.

Safety Tip: Always ensure good air circulation and drainage to prevent mold growth. If you see any signs of mold, discard the batch immediately. Clean your trays thoroughly between uses.

Balancing Protein, Carbs, and Calcium Without Commercial Supplements

Achieving a balanced diet for your flock using homegrown feed requires understanding their nutritional needs at different life stages. The goal is to mimic the approximate ratios found in commercial feeds, but with whole, natural ingredients.

General Nutritional Guidelines:

• Chicks (0-8 weeks): High protein (18-22%), moderate carbohydrates, lower calcium.
• Growers (8-18 weeks): Moderate protein (16-18%), higher carbohydrates, lower calcium.
• Layers (18+ weeks): Moderate protein (16-18%), moderate carbohydrates, high calcium (3.5-4.5%).
• Broilers: High protein (20-24%), high carbohydrates for rapid growth.

How Your Crops Contribute:

• Carbohydrates (Energy): Corn, wheat, oats, millet, amaranth. These should form the bulk (60-70%) of your feed mix.
• Protein: Peas (field peas, cowpeas), sunflower seeds, amaranth, comfrey. These are vital for muscle development, egg production, and overall health. Aim for 20-30% of your mix from protein sources.
• Fats: Sunflower seeds are an excellent source of healthy fats.
• Vitamins & Minerals: Comfrey, various leafy greens (foraged or grown), sprouted grains, and a diverse mix of crops will provide a wide spectrum.

Natural Calcium Sources:

Laying hens require significant calcium for strong eggshells. Without commercial supplements, you’ll need natural alternatives:

• Crushed Oyster Shell: The gold standard. Purchase in bulk or find local sources. Offer free-choice in a separate feeder.
• Crushed Eggshells: A sustainable option from your own flock. Bake them at 250°F (120°C) for 10-15 minutes to sterilize and make them brittle, then crush into small pieces. Offer free-choice.
• Bone Meal: If you process your own animals, bone meal can be a source of calcium and phosphorus, but ensure it’s properly sterilized and finely ground.

Boosting Protein & Micronutrients:

• Insects & Worms: Allow chickens to free-range or create a compost pile to attract insects. Black soldier fly larvae are an excellent, high-protein supplement you can cultivate.
• Foraged Greens: Dandelions, clover, plantain, and various weeds provide vitamins and minerals.
• Fermented Grains: Fermenting your homegrown grains can increase nutrient availability and digestibility, similar to sprouting.
• Alfalfa: A perennial legume, alfalfa can be grown and fed fresh or dried for additional protein and vitamins.

Important Note: While striving for self-sufficiency, it’s wise to keep a small emergency supply of a high-quality commercial feed, especially for chicks or sick birds, until you’ve perfected your homegrown system.

Harvest, Drying, and Storage for Year-Round Use

Proper harvesting, drying, and storage are critical to preserving your homegrown chicken feed and preventing spoilage, pests, and nutrient loss.

Harvesting Specific Crops:

• Corn: Harvest when husks are dry and yellow/brown, and kernels are hard. Test by pressing a thumbnail into a kernel; if no milky liquid comes out, it’s ready.
• Sunflowers: When the back of the head turns yellow, and seeds are plump. Protect from birds with netting. Cut the head with a few inches of stalk.
• Wheat, Oats, Millet, Amaranth: Harvest when stalks and seed heads are golden brown and dry. Seeds should be hard and easily separate from the head.
• Peas: When pods are dry and brittle, and peas inside are hard.
• Comfrey: Cut leaves when they are mature but still green and vibrant, typically before flowering for best nutrient content.

Drying Techniques:

Moisture is the enemy of stored grains. Aim for a moisture content of 10-12% for safe long-term storage.

• Air Drying (Grains & Seeds): Spread harvested grains (on the cob, in heads, or threshed) in a single layer on screens, tarps, or clean concrete in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. Stir or turn daily. This can take several weeks.
• Dehydrators: For smaller batches or greens like comfrey, a food dehydrator can speed up the process. Follow manufacturer instructions.
• Hanging (Sunflowers, Corn): Hang sunflower heads or corn cobs in mesh bags or by their stalks in a dry, airy space.
• Comfrey & Greens: Spread thinly on screens or hang in bundles in a dry, dark, well-ventilated area until brittle. Crumble for storage.

Safety Warning: Never store grains that feel damp or have any signs of mold. Mold produces mycotoxins that are highly toxic to chickens and can be fatal.

Threshing & Winnowing:

Once dry, grains need to be separated from their stalks and chaff.

• Threshing: Beat dried stalks/heads against a hard surface, or walk/drive over them on a tarp. For smaller batches, rubbing heads between your hands works.
• Winnowing: Separate the lighter chaff from the heavier grain. Pour the threshed material from one container to another in front of a fan or on a breezy day. The wind will carry away the chaff, leaving the grain.

Storage for Year-Round Use:

Proper storage is paramount to protect your harvest from pests and spoilage.

• Airtight Containers: Use food-grade buckets with gamma seal lids, Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers, or sturdy metal bins. This prevents moisture re-entry and keeps pests out.
• Cool, Dark, Dry Location: Store containers in a basement, root cellar, or dedicated storage shed where temperatures are stable and low, and humidity is minimal.
• Pest Control: Consider adding bay leaves or food-grade diatomaceous earth to your stored grains (mix thoroughly) as a natural pest deterrent. Regularly inspect your storage area for signs of rodents or insects.
• Labeling: Clearly label containers with the crop type and harvest date.

By meticulously managing your harvest and storage, you can ensure a consistent, high-quality supply of homegrown chicken feed throughout the year, even through the lean winter months.

Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Your Own Chicken Feed